Frequently Asked Questions
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Note from MillCreek:
It is recommended to record your trials in a journal. When a problem does arise, you can refer back to your notes and start to isolate the cause. Variables may include the container, amounts of dye, fragrance oil, wax, wicks, pour temperature and even the conditions of the work area. Test, Test, Test! This cannot be stressed enough. Testing is an unavoidable part of the candle making process and makes all the difference in your finished products! Please do not take your finished products to market without the proper testing.
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Some scents are best-sellers all year round, and others sell best during specific seasons. At the bottom of this page, is a list of best selling scents by their season.
Do I need to heat my jars before pouring?
No heating of the jar is required. Make sure the jars are clean and at room temperature before pouring scented wax into the jars.
Do I need to add any additives to my soy wax?
No, our soy wax does not require additives. Our soy wax is great with just color dye and fragrance oils. Some additives may have a tendency to inhibit scent throw. Beeswax used as an additive in container soy candles can make for smoother tops. The recommended beginning testing point is 1/2 ounce of beeswax per pound of soy wax.
Can I make votives with soy wax?
No, soy wax is designed for container candle making. We do offer an All Natural Pillar/Votive Wax that is great for making votives and pillar candles, give it a try, we love it!
Can I use soy wax for novelty candles?
No, soy wax is too soft.
What size wick do I need?
Different size containers need different size wicks. Please take advantage of MillCreek's wick sampler packs. They range in size from votives to 3 1/2-4" diameter openings. When trying to find the correct application for your container, MillCreek's Wick Sampler Pack is a great place to start. Measure the opening diameter of your container, compare that measurement to the chart on the wick page. Give us an email and we can give you a great place to start your testing. You may take three identical jars and wick each one with the different wicks in that category (small, medium, large or extra large). Next make a batch of scented, colored wax with the formula you will be using (example: 1.5oz fragrance oil per pound of MillCreek Soy Wax and 1 gram colorant) and pour this melted wax into your test container and let cure. To test burn we recommend placing candles in the same general area (1-2 foot apart) to insure they will all be under the same conditions. Burn for four hours and take notes of flame heights, depth of melt pool. Is wax remaining on sides of container? Extinguish and re-light the next day (or until hardened) paying close attention to the flame heights and melt pool yet again. Trying to achieve a full melt pool 1/4" to 3/4" deep within 3 hours is desirable. Again, if you do not what to make three candles in your new application, give us an e-mail and our friendly staff can help in selecting a starting point to begin testing.
How can I tell what color my finished candle will be?
It is hard to tell when the melted, colored soy wax is in the pour pot. Drop a small amount of the wax onto white paper, allow to dry. This should give you a good idea of the finished product.
Why do I have color chunks in my candles?
This is caused when the colorant is not fully dissolved when you pour candles. Make sure to fully incorporate the colorant being used. Try crushing flakes into smaller pieces. Try melting a small amount of wax, adding colorant and heating and stirring again until fully dissolved; then add this mixture into the larger pour pot.
Why do some of my candles have wet spots?
Ahh--this can be tricky. Wet spots may occur when the candles cool very quickly. Make sure jars are at room temperature and allow them to cool down slowly, leaving plenty of room around each container. Most of us learn to live with this. Just look at the 'big guys' candles, wet spots all over them. Make sure your containers are clean and free of any moisture or dust/film.
Why do some of my candles have oil on the top?
Try adding less fragrance oil. Be sure to WEIGH your oil using a scale. We recommend a usage of 1.5oz fragrance to 1 pound of our soy wax. Some oils are heavier than others. Be sure to incorporate the fragrance oil throughout the melted wax.
Why am I having sink holes in a few of my candles?
Pouring at an incorrect temperature can cause this. Make sure jars are at room temperature. Try pouring at a different temperature. Zap the cooled tops with a heat gun to fill in voids and correct bumpy or flaky tops. Usually the cooler you pour (110°), the smoother your tops will be. Also make sure your candles are cooling slowly after pouring.
Why can't I smell the fragrance oil in my candle?
Is the room too large for your candle (office building, high ceilings, open spaces)? Sometimes simply leaving the room and coming back in can make all the difference. Our sense of smell might be dulled for a moment, referred to as 'candle nose'. It is also good practice to let your candles cure for a couple days and even up to a week. This can make all the difference. Are you using high quality fragrance oils? Rest assured, MillCreek only carries premium fragrances, each tested in 100% soy wax!
Are you weighing your fragrance oil and adding the fragrance into the melted wax at 175 degrees? This is extremely important and two steps that cannot be avoided. MillCreek recommends 1.5oz of fragrance oil per one pound of 100% soy wax. Measure by weight, not volume; the oils weigh different amounts and we cannot stress this enough for a great scent throw.
Why are some of my candle tops bumpy, flaky or rough?
Some people prefer this natural look while others like a smooth finish. This is the nature of soy wax. To achieve a smooth finish zap the tops with a heat gun or hair dryer. This simply re-melts the top layer. Allow to cool. Again, the cooler you pour (110°) the smoother your tops will be.
Can I cool my container candles in water or in the freezer?
These methods are not recommend due to cracking and color changes, although if using votive or tart molds it may be helpful for removing from molds.
My container candles are not burning clear across the top.
Also referred to as 'tunneling'. This may be caused by too small a wick. Try wicking up to the next size. Do not burn candles in drafty locations. Take notes on the amount of fragrance and colorant that is being used to help isolate the problem.
My wick is drowning itself out...
Your wick may be too small. Try a larger wick application or less colorant. Do not burn candles in drafty locations. Are you using the correct amount of fragrance oil?
My candles are burning with a large flame...
This could be as simple as trimming your wicks shorter or you may need to change to a smaller wick. Take note of your melt pool depth and the time the candle achieved the full melt pool.
Why do my candles have white patches?
This is referred to as jump lines or frost lines. This can indicate an incorrect temperature at pouring. Try adjusting your pouring temperature. If you pour cool (around 110 degrees) try pouring hotter. Always know what temperature you're pouring at so you can adjust for concerns just like this. Some colors are more prone to this (example: reds, purples).
What can I tell my customers and write in my flyers about soy wax?
The benefits of soy wax candles are simply amazing... Soy candles last three times longer than petroleum-based candles, incredible scent throw, virtually no black soot (which means no black walls!) Supports American farmers by using the soybean. Soybeans are a renewable and sustainable resource grown right here in the USA! MillCreek Soy Wax is 100% soy! Each and every soy candle is different and can have different qualities. Remember each field of soybeans is different and so each soy candle may be somewhat unique. ____________________________________________________________________________________
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First Aid Procedures for
Fragrance Oils: KEEP OUT OF CHILDREN'S REACH!
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